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Reconstructing and reconfiguring a space, in the Bank of America building,
that, previously housed two (2) failed restaurants, Riley McDermott's ensconced
itself in an elegant, contemporary setting for their superb steak and seafood
restaurant ... with an exquisite Raw Bar as the centerpiece as you enter the
premises. While at the bar, directly in front of you when you stand at
reception, the low lighting is reminiscent of South Beach.
I've dined at Riley McDermott's (named for owner Anthony McDermott's seventeen
year old son) several times since it opened. Lunches and dinners were both very
enjoyable with some truly memorable dishes, delivered with panache that was not
over the top; rather, that reminded me of a level of service that has all but
disappeared in Florida. No kneeling waiters; no informal introductions, "I'm
Bruce, I'll be your waiter this evening." Competent professional service in
abundance ... from the managers, Maitre d's and wait staff.
The management and kitchen teams are all experienced and operate like a well
oiled machine. Think Emeril Legasse when you think of where they honed their
skills. General Manager, Jason Cotter, is Emeril's nephew, while Executive Chef
Trent Osborne spent years at four (4) Legasse locations as sous chef.
Let's start with the Raw Bar, which has an ever changing array of excellent
shell fish. Yes, there's the superb Maine lobsters; green tip New Zealand
mussels, Black Mussels, all plump and meaty whether you have them cold, steamed
or in a white wine sauce. The oysters range, depending on the day, from Prince
Edwards to Malpeques, Bluepoints, Wellfleet, Kumamoto and Apalachicola. There
are little neck, middle neck and Cherrystone clams. Beautiful shrimp for a
simple cocktail or for sautéing, broiling or just munching on. And, least I
forget, extraordinarily tasty Lump Crab meat; have it as a cocktail or, perhaps,
have them stuff and broil or bake your four (4) pound lobster! And that's just
for starters.
I particularly have enjoyed the Peeky Toe Oysters as an appetizer; broiled and
crusted, they are served with American Caviar and Truffle Hollandaise. What can
I say ... scrumptious.
There are soups, a great gumbo with andouille sausage, lobster bisque and
others. Usually a soup de jour and the gumbo are on the menu. The Lobster Bisque
with chunks of tasty lobster and corn kernels is really a treat, and if you eat
enough of the fabulous breads; it could be a small meal.
The breads are presented so that you can make your choices. The Rosemary
Focaccia has become my favourite, but they are all excellent, crusty and served
warm.
Salads galore and you can almost 'build' them yourself. From a classic Caesar
salad to the 'corrupted' American versions with chicken or shrimp (You'll have
to excuse the comment, I'm a purist); a beautiful warm Spinach Salad, homemade
Mozzarella and tomato salad and a very excellent house salad ... all available
with the freshest ingredients and well made, tasty dressings.
But, don't over do it and fill up. The best is yet to come.
It wasn't so many years ago that all the public, even sophisticated diners, knew
about meats were, Prime or Choice. Today we are all aware of Waygu beef and
Niman Ranch pork. Well, those are names well worth knowing, and if you haven't
encountered them before, you will when you dine at Riley McDermott's. They
feature a terrific Waygu beef fillet and an excellent Niman Ranch pork chop. A
very moist, exquisitely flavourful veal chop is prepared any way you would like.
If you feel like a hamburger at lunch ... try the Waygu, it is unbelievable.
All the meats are cooked to a turn, and come to the table with juicy flavourful
centers and nicely done outsides; unless of course, you prefer your meats well
done; which should be against the law. As with all properly cooked steaks, no
sauces are necessary, although, in addition to the bottled kind, McDermott's
will prepare a beautiful Béarnaise sauce for you.
Aside from the aforementioned lobsters, their offerings from the waters include
Ahi Tuna, Salmon and a selected grilled fish which is changed each day.
Side dishes abound and include a variety of potatoes. The truffled shoestring
potatoes are memorable, as is the simple Macaroni & Cheese, prepared anything
but simply ... with black truffles, no less. Asparagus steamed or sautéed, with
Hollandaise or not. Creamed spinach was excellent, and the next time I was there
they happily prepared simple sautéed spinach with garlic for me.
The desserts are all excellent and very imaginative. I love, but can rarely find
Bananas Foster on a menu, yet ... there it was. And, the New Orleans/Legasse
influence is readily apparent.
The ice creams and sorbets are made on the premises with some unique flavours.
See for yourself, I'm not going to spoil the surprise!
If you want something truly unique and very satisfactory, then try the
Cheesecake Lollipops ... an assortment of flavours with Ricotta cheesecake ...
which is the best, in spite of the overarching reputation of New York
Cheesecakes.
A Wine List, as thick as a volume of the Encyclopedia Britannica, composed of
wines from all over the world, with something, or things, to compliment whatever
you and your dinning companions are having. And, you won't have to take a second
mortgage - are they still available?
Finish with an excellent Espresso and perhaps, a dessert wine; Far Niente's
Dolce, for instance, or a Port from the excellent range they purvey.
Sign the bill, tip generously and go directly to the terrace in front of the
restaurant, where you can enjoy an excellent cigar ... which you've brought with
you.
What a great dinning experience. To paraphrase The Terminator: You'll be back!
Riley McDermott's
401 East Las Olas Boulevard
Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301
Telephone: 954.767.6555
www.rileymcdermotts.com
