Many of you have asked us to develop a column on wine. As you know, the wine universe is multi-layered and vast—with a depth and breadth that cannot be captured in just one article. Therefore, we decided to focus our first wine story on a category, which is relevant given the time of year: spring and summer wines.

We interviewed experts who work in restaurants where steak, fish and other game are served. Certainly, as the weather turns warmer, people typically begin to modify their food selections as well as their choices of wine. Our experts shared their views on some of the world’s most refreshing summer wines and in some cases, the particular dishes they complement.

Scott Waller, Sommelier, The Whiteface Lodge, New York
Scott Waller is the Sommelier at the elegant Adirondack-themed, four-star Whiteface Lodge, located in Lake Placid, New York. The Lodge has won the “Wine Spectator” award for four consecutive years and under the direction of Mr. Waller, it will most likely secure the accolade again in 2011.

Mr. Waller believes that during winter, people tend to prefer more full-bodied, heavier wines and other spirits that provide a richness” in flavor. However, he commented that in warmer weather, food selections change from a heavier variety to simpler and cooler selections. To complement the lighter fare, Mr. Waller believes that individuals should select light-bodied wines that “won’t overtake the delicate flavors of summer cuisine.”  For salads, Mr. Waller recommends German Rieslings because “they carry both sweetness and acidity and they have the ability to pair well with vinaigrette dressings.” One outstanding producer, per Mr. Waller, is Maximin Grunhauser. His property has been developing wines since Roman times; take special note of the Abtsberg Kabinett Riesling. He said that although Chardonnays are a favorite summer wine, they aren’t the best wine to pair with salads if made in a fuller bodied style. “Oak expression and buttery flavor in a fuller bodied Chardonnay can often overtake the cleaner, simpler flavors of a salad.”

Mr. Waller also suggested White Bordeaux wines because he finds them “absolutely refreshing.” They aren’t as popular in the US as in Europe but savvy wine connoisseurs know that the base grape used in White Bordeaux wines is the same used in Sauvignon Blancs.  Guests might try a Chateau Carbonnieux for lunch, dinner or as a refreshing après dinner treat. At the Whiteface Lodge during spring and summer, Mr. Waller said that Sauvignon Blancs are a popular selection and that they pair well with dishes featuring green summer vegetables, such as asparagus and artichokes.

Another recommendation is White Burgundys (which have a Chardonnay base) because as Mr. Waller noted, “they provide a much brighter acidity and less oak flavoring than Chardonnays.” One recommendation is to select White Burgundys from a French producer named Boyer Martenot located in the Mersault region. A few of Mr. Waller’s recommendations from this producer include the “Bourgogne Blanc,” “L’Ormeau” which comes from 80-90 year-old vines in the Mersault region or the very popular “Les Charmes.”

In terms of red wines for spring and summer, Mr. Waller favors an elegant Pinot Noir as it pairs nicely with fish and lighter meat dishes with chicken or pork. In this category, Mr. Waller recommends an Oregon producer called Domaine Serene and their selection “Evanstad Reserve.”