Are all wine coolers created equal?

[Andyman]

I am considering upgrading to a wine cooler for storage. I have been searching the topic and I think I am further from pulling the trigger than when I started. it seems there is a lot of issues with humidity and temp. I am not very mechanical so talk about wiring fans to timers and such isn't very appealing.

Here is my question. Are The Thermoelectric "compressor-less" coolers better than there compressered counter part for maintaining humidity and temp? It seems when the compressor runs, that is when the humidity drops and the beads can't keep up. is this the case with the Thermoelectic coolers?

Thanks

[zemekone]

Originally Posted by Andyman

I am considering upgrading to a wine cooler for storage. I have been searching the topic and I think I am further from pulling the trigger than when I started. it seems there is a lot of issues with humidity and temp. I am not very mechanical so talk about wiring fans to timers and such isn't very appealing.

Here is my question. Are The Thermoelectric "compressor-less" coolers better than there compressered counter part for maintaining humidity and temp? It seems when the compressor runs, that is when the humidity drops and the beads can't keep up. is this the case with the Thermoelectic coolers?

Thanks

Personally im the same way, no wiring, just wanna throw my beads and forget about it all. I run a 2 Avanti Wine chiller and yes they are thermo electric. No disrespect to anyone out there, but i do think the thremoelectric are better cuz u dont have to worry about the compressor coming on and sucking out the humidity, but there are gorillas who have set the timing and wired it so dou dont have to worry about that. Im pretty sure almost any gorilla out who has it set up will be willing to help... if u need any suggestions PM me...

[Cartierusm]

Compressors don't 'suck out' humidity. A compressor based fridge is a sealed system. The same thing happens with TECs and compressors alike. When the unit turns on and the part inside the fridge getting cold, i.e. the cooling coils or the heat sink for the TEC, becomes a cold surface for the humidity in the air to condense on. SO it doesn't really matter what type of fridge you use. The con for a TEC fridge is that TECs are very inefficient because they draw lots of power. Compressors these days in new fridges are very efficient and will cost like $5 a year to run as a humidor, $20 to use it as a fridge. You really don't need fans and timers, but I do recommend you use a Cigar Oasis electric humidifier so it can keep up when the fridge turns on. I would not build one with passive humidification like sponges or beads...it will not work right. Humidity will find it's way into everything so extra fans are not necessary. One fan wired to come on when the compressor to come on is necessary if the fridge doesn't already have a circulation fan for dispersing the cold air from around the coils. But this is easy and you won't need some fancy electrical board to do the work.

[Mister Moo]

...One fan wired to come on when the compressor ... come(s) on is necessary if the fridge doesn't already have a circulation fan for dispersing the cold air from around the coils. But this is easy and you won't need some fancy electrical board to do the work.

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it. Adding a temp controller (if you need it - mine did as it runs too cool on the warmest setting) and fan is not technical. It's just a drill a screwdriver and a small nuisance - or project, depnding on how you look at it.

An A419 controller and a fan takes five minutes to figure out and 45-minutes to install neatly. All the A419 does is turn power on and off to a temperature-monitored environment (like a freezer or a greenhouse, for example). A $75 A419, suitably pre-wired by Zymico for a winecoolerdor goes like this:

1. Screw-mount the unit on the cooler with a few sheet metal screws and situate the temp probe in the cooler via a hole drilled through the body;
2. program a setpoint (SP) as your desired base temperature;
3. program a differential (DIF), the number of degrees difference you will allow from the SP;
4. program an auto reset delay (ASD) if needed. This is a minimum lag between power-on cycles to protect a compressor from frequent restarts; my Sears/Haier cooler manual says a 5-min. minimum lag between cycles is required. The A419 ASD program option covers that.
5. plug the cooler power cord into the A419 and plug the A419 cord into the wall.
6. A419 default reading shows the temp at its probe in the humi.
6. A419 is a temperature sensor that, according to the SP and DIFF, cuts power on/off to hold a temperature setting within a range.

I programmed an A419 to kick power on to the cooler when it reads a temp of 70F (Setpoint). Power stays on, running the cooler, until it reads a temp of of 66F (the DIF of 4-degrees below the setpoint) and then it cuts power. If the temp inside the cooler then suddenly elevated above the setpoint, the ASD would prevent power from being restored for the time I programmed (7-minutes to protect the compressor). Otherwise, it just idles until temp demands power-on again, etc. etc. The A419 has a few other features that would be important for applications other than a humidor (blah blah). If the A419 loses power and cannot operate, last settings remain in memory.

I keep the house cool in cold weather and the cooler hasn't much gone over 68 this winter. I expect the controller will serve more purpose in summer when the a/c is shut off (or backed way down) during vacation or when wife and I are both away from the house.