Temperature problem

[stogie_kanobie_one]

Keep an ye on eBay.... I got my 17 bottle for $25.00. They have bigger ones in scratch & dent as well fo typically about $100.00. Once I stabilize things in mine I'm going to consider selling bout everything and getting a bigger one. Worrying about the heat and what not is just not worth it.

[King Cat]

If you freeze ALL of your incoming cigars, which kills all potential beetle infestation in the future (this seems to be a no brainer - I think I will start doing this as well even though I've never had an outbreak). I've also never heard of anyone complain about a difference in taste/flavor from a once frozen cigar vs. non-frozen (which although sort of suprisingy to me, is good news). The unknown effects of freezing my cigars, as it relates to flavor/taste, is one of the reasons that I haven't frozen my cigars in the past. However, apparently this isn't an issue. I've read that even many of the big boy's do it (i.e. JR - see below). So here comes the elementary level question... hypothetically, lets say that all of the cigars in your humi have been frozen at one point, then who cares if your cigars get subjected to 80 degree heat, as long as the humidity is where you want it?

Here is some interesting reading that was posted on Cigar Aficionado's website (June 24, 2006):

"We freeze everything that comes in from anyone who isn't a major manufacturer," says Lew Rothman, president and chief executive officer of retail and mail-order giant 800 JR-Cigar Inc. "If a manufacturer doesn't have the fumigation and freezing procedures of the major manufacturers like General, Consolidated, Swisher, Villazon, Fuente, then you have to be extra careful. These bugs can be devastating." Even with cigars from the large cigarmakers, Rothman said his policy is to spot-check at least one box per shipment.

In JR's new Burlington, North Carolina, warehouse and distribution center, Rothman installed a 40-by-60-foot freezer big enough for a tractor trailer. Purchased from a food products manufacturer, the freezer ensures that the millions of cigars that pass through JR's warehouse every month don't go out infested with beetles. "Freezing the cigars cracks the larvae and kills the eggs and the adults," says Rothman. "Before shipping the cigars we have to do all we can to avoid any problems. We've had no disasters yet."

[oddball]

It's been in the 90s and 100s around my area lately, with the inside of my house at 80-85 degrees in the afternoons. Due to the knowledge gathered at this site, I purchased a 20-bottle cooler (non compressor unit) over a month ago, for less than most cabinet humidors and now I have no worries about my cigars, which are all in dress boxes or cabs. So far, I don't see a need for a temp control; the built-in one set on it's highest temp works fine for now. I actually sat down and watched my hygrometer/temp gauge thru the glass door during a number of cycles and the lowest it got was 56 degrees, usually staying at around 61-63 degrees, at 68-70% humidity. Better than running the AC all day, and absolutely better than 85 degree temps, IMHO.

[larryinlc]

My wine cooler isn't that big, but it does have a temp control with adjustment fron 68 down to 39 degrees. I find that 61 works the best as it keeps the cooler at ~68. Also, I now only use two 100 ct desktop humidors in the cooler itself. The cycling of the cooler has very little to no sudden impact on temp or humidity inside the humidors. Very easy no fuss system. One 4oz bead tube in each humidor with remote sensor from Oregon Scientific also in each. It's a good set-up for my smallish stash. Maintainance? I wipe the inside of condensation about once per week. Sorry for the tangent. Back to high temps and the evil beetle.

Larry

[Mindflux]

which wine coolers do you all have that dont have these big ass temp swings? everything I've read mentions getting an external prope thermometer that cuts the power to the unit when it gets below the set range (I'm familiar with these units as a homebrewer).

[montecristo#2]

Originally Posted by King Cat

So here comes the elementary level question... hypothetically, lets say that all of the cigars in your humi have been frozen at one point, then who cares if your cigars get subjected to 80 degree heat, as long as the humidity is where you want it?

[/I]

Some really good info. There was a post on the internet from a guy who did a blind "Taste test" and from the results, most people couldn't tell the difference between frozen and non-frozen.

This was embedded in a previous post on freezing cigars:

http://groups.google.com.sg/group/al...=en&lr=&rnum=5

Since I freeze everything before it goes into my humidor, stuff I don't freeze I keep in a tupperware container with some humidity packets, I am not that worried about beetles. I make sure to wash my hands before touching cigars in my humidor if I have touched anything in the tupperware first.

With that said I still check, since you may not kill 100% of the eggs/larvae. I would assume the tobacco is dried at high temperatures, so high temperatures shouldn't matter, although this is just a guess.

If you have never had a beetle problem and your temperature is fine, why would you start freezing? Is it worth the trouble?

I only do it because I don't have AC or a way to keep the temp below 70-75 during the early evening.

[larryinlc]

I have a Chambrer wine cooler. I should also add that the only radical fluctuation I have is when I actually open a humidor to get a smoke. The RH jumps quickly, but I believe this is consistant with quick temp/humidity change. Going from 68 to 80 seems to creates immediate condensation like fogging eye glasses. Short term in it's affect though.

Larry

[Mindflux]

Hrm. I dunno all the other threads I keep reading talk about temp swings because of the unit kicking on off (dipping below the 60s in temp for instance).

[King Cat]

Originally Posted by Mindflux

Hrm. I dunno all the other threads I keep reading talk about temp swings because of the unit kicking on off (dipping below the 60s in temp for instance).

That would be consistent with my experience, because that's precisely what it did due to the fact that the highest temperature it would get to was about 57 degrees. However, that brings me to an interesting question; wouldn't then those who have a Johnson controller have similar issues because the unit, although automatically set to turn on and off based on your set temperature, does "kick on and off". I'm interested in hearing the difference with those guys who have units that turn on and off versus those guys who have coolers that can be set to a higher temperature (i.e. 65 degrees), thus just staying on. I'm not so sure it makes a big difference, but it is an interesting question - at least to me

Now for those who have thermoelectric units, from what I understand about these devices, they shouldn't experience the dramatic swings in RH. The only downside is that very few larger coolers are thermoelectric, unless of course, you are willing to buy an Aristocrat or similar humidor.

[oddball]

Originally Posted by Mindflux

Hrm. I dunno all the other threads I keep reading talk about temp swings because of the unit kicking on off (dipping below the 60s in temp for instance).

I have an Avanti 20 bottle unit that is thermoelectric instead of compressor based. The temp seems to hover mostly around 60-62 degrees, the lowest I've seen being 56 degrees (I've been looking at the temp gauge CONSTANTLY for the first several weeks). RH is pretty stable @ approx 68-70% using 65% beads and oasis foam humidifier. I do not have a Johnson temp control, yet I'm comfortable with the above numbers. As I stated in my earlier post, I much rather have 56-62 degrees temp than 80-85 degrees. Believe me, turning on the AC in my house when we're at work is VERY EXPENSIVE. During the summer, the cooler seems to be the best solution for my situation.