Better Piping: The Head Bone's Connected to the Neckbone

[Mister Moo]

Originally Posted by Phlegmatic

As a novice, my biggest problem is that I allways end up with, say, half a teaspoon full of tobacco in the bottom, that wont keep lit!?

It could be the pipe airhole location or, more likely, tobak that is too damp. Or - sometimes dottle just happens with given combinations of pipe and tobacco (but half a teaspoon sounds excessive). Go back to item #1, above. Airhole low and centered? If so, proceed to #2, etc. Dry enough tobacco? #3 - pipe not packed too tightly? Easy draw before you light or is the bowl overstuffed and too hard to draw on?

If your smokes are running a bit wet, dry the tobak more; and don't hesitate to swab with a pipe cleaner at the hint of a gurgle.

I had one pipe after another that did the same darn thing. I dunno why, but after a several months of haphazard procedure I starting paying more attention to the details of packing/lighting towards keeping an even burn. Suddenly most of my bowls began smoking down to ash with ony a couple of tamps from start to finish; part of it might be that my pipes began showing some decent cake, too.

Work on these things knowing they all fit together in the end. Take two aspirin and call back in a year.

[Phlegmatic]

Thank you Mr Moo, I have now put out some of the Caledonian "red" to dry, that I will have for my evning smoke. And I have also cleaned the pipe I will use. I was very thorough, bent several pipe cleaners and twisted them to get a wider cleaner. There was some gunk to clean out...

[Mister Moo]

Originally Posted by Phlegmatic

... There was some gunk to clean out...

You know, Phl'ic, if you're using a briar and not letting it dry out properly between smokes then the bottom of the bowl gets swampy (soggy). A wet pipe bowl would contribute to a bad burn at the end of a bowl.

If you're overworking a briar you might consider a meerschaum to back it up.

[Phlegmatic]

Thanks, I have realized that to be a problem. Yet I havent been able to find enough pipes I like, so I only have 3 atm! Im working on the pipe collecting bit though...

[Hermit]

Originally Posted by Phlegmatic

Thanks, I have realized that to be a problem. Yet I havent been able to find enough pipes I like, so I only have 3 atm! Im working on the pipe collecting bit though...

My problem is the opposite...too many pipes I like.
I started in early April and I'm up to 58 pipes.
I better slow down or add a room to the house.

[Tech Theatre Man]

Originally Posted by Hermit

I'm up to 58 pipes.
I better slow down or add a room to the house.

Geez!!! Hey, why not?

[Phlegmatic]

Originally Posted by Hermit

My problem is the opposite...too many pipes I like.
I started in early April and I'm up to 58 pipes.
I better slow down or add a room to the house.

Ive been buying 5 pipes the last 2,5 weeks, two were useless tho...But if I keep up the speed, I too will have 58 pipes soon!

Now, after my evning smoke I can without hesitation claim my problem is a wet pipe! I emptied the remains that did not want to stay lit, and it were soggy and charred...Guess I´ll have to get some corncob pipes for now!

[Phlegmatic]

I just noticed that this pipe I´ve been using today, a Hilson, has a conical tobacco chamber. Is that someting that greatly contributes to dampness?

[RJpuffs]

Originally Posted by Phlegmatic

I just noticed that this pipe I´ve been using today, a Hilson, has a conical tobacco chamber. Is that someting that greatly contributes to dampness?

I don't think the shape of the chamber would cause this, more likely a drilling/alignment issue on the airhole and/or shank and/or stem. Ideally, airflow should be even down the bowl (airhole alignment at the bottom) so you get an even light/burn across the entire top of the bowl. Then the air flow should be as straight and smooth as possible into the stem. Any constrictions, expansions, obstructions et al will disrupt the airflow and could cause condensation (gurgle).

Low end aka machine-made pipes usually have problems in these areas, some are fixable if you take a drill to it. Hand made pipes obviously someone has taken the effort to do this for you, and thereby is its higher cost.

Also, as a noobie one tends to draw too hard or too often, making the burn too hot and also creating condensation (even though the pipe may be just fine). And all briar pipes do need to dry out, if you have a soggy mess you probably want to let that puppy sleep a couple of days.

Get some cheap cobs to fill in, easiest solution

[Mister Moo]

Originally Posted by RJpuffs

I don't think the shape of the chamber would cause this...

I don't mean this at all as a criticism of your comment, R'uffs, but it gave me pause to wonder about smoking qualities of the conical bowl in general.

I'll note, anecdotally, that I am the owner/operator of two dublins with conical bowls. They are both very good smokers. They were the first pipes that regularly turned tobacco to 100% ash for me. One is an older (handmade) Tinsky/ASP and the other a (production) Savinelli. The proportions of the bowls are radically different. The ASP is tall and narrow compared to a wide, shorter bowl on the Sav. While this makes the Sav a little harder to light evenly*, they've both been more-or-less dottle-free since they broke in.

I'm not sure what all this has to do with the price of tobacco in Yenidje, except item #1 in post #1 says to to select a properly made pipe to get a good start on painless puffing. While I've had good results with many pipes and pipe shapes this makes me wonder if others get noticeably better burns from manufactured (or cake-created) conical bowls. I could imagine a few reasons why this would be the case.

* a little harder is an understatement. A wide tobacco chamber is definitely harder for me to start evenly. It also takes a lot of power-puffing to get it going which makes enough smoke to set off an EPA air quality alert in the next county. Narrower chambers are probably better for rookies when it comes to pipe selection. A big 1" wide bowl looks dramatic but a 3/4" wide bowl is easier to pack, light evenly and smoke, sez I.

[Phlegmatic]

Today I havent had time to smoke alot. Not that I intend to smoke alot, but it was not more than the reamins (the "half a teaspoon") in the bottom, from last time I used my Nörding pipe. And now my evening smoke, that also was Caledonian "red" tobacco.

I might be making some progress?! I noticed that I got a sizzling sound at the last part of the bowl. And that of course means the heat causes water to boil off. It didnt go out as often. But water vapour can only do harm, so I did have to relight quite a few times...

I will pay more atteniton to the initial lighting next time! I think this can be very crucial; if there is an unlightend part, it will have less resistance and draw in air, which contains moisture.

Pipe smoking is a lot like shooting a muzzleloader, every part of the process must be done right; or u gonna have to pull the ball and start over...

[RJpuffs]

Originally Posted by Mister Moo

I don't mean this at all as a criticism of your comment, R'uffs, but it gave me pause to wonder about smoking qualities of the conical bowl in general.

I'll note, anecdotally, that I am the owner/operator of two dublins with conical bowls. They are both very good smokers. They were the first pipes that regularly turned tobacco to 100% ash for me. One is an older (handmade) Tinsky/ASP and the other a (production) Savinelli. The proportions of the bowls are radically different. The ASP is tall and narrow compared to a wide, shorter bowl on the Sav. While this makes the Sav a little harder to light evenly*, they've both been more-or-less dottle-free since they broke in.

I'm not sure what all this has to do with the price of tobacco in Yenidje, except item #1 in post #1 says to to select a properly made pipe to get a good start on painless puffing. While I've had good results with many pipes and pipe shapes this makes me wonder if others get noticeably better burns from manufactured (or cake-created) conical bowls. I could imagine a few reasons why this would be the case.

* a little harder is an understatement. A wide tobacco chamber is definitely harder for me to start evenly. It also takes a lot of power-puffing to get it going which makes enough smoke to set off an EPA air quality alert in the next county. Narrower chambers are probably better for rookies when it comes to pipe selection. A big 1" wide bowl looks dramatic but a 3/4" wide bowl is easier to pack, light evenly and smoke, sez I.

Some of my (meager) collection of pipes have tapered (conical) bowls of varying extents. I have not noticed any difference in lighting or smoking these, at least attributable to the shape of the chamber. In pipes that forced me to "power puff", I simply drilled out the airhole and/or the stem until I got a good draw.

"When in doubt, drill it out"

[EvanS]

Originally Posted by Mister Moo

* a little harder is an understatement. A wide tobacco chamber is definitely harder for me to start evenly. It also takes a lot of power-puffing to get it going which makes enough smoke to set off an EPA air quality alert in the next county. Narrower chambers are probably better for rookies when it comes to pipe selection. A big 1" wide bowl looks dramatic but a 3/4" wide bowl is easier to pack, light evenly and smoke, sez I.

And don't forget the charring light. Wonderous things happen after you (1) take few good solid puffs the get a good char all across the top of the bowl (2) lightly tamp just to tidy things up (3) let the pipe set for a couple of minutes while you close up you tins, pour your ale or watch you coffee cool and (4) relight your tindered bowl, which is completely cool but just itching to have flame put to it again now that it's had a chance to breathe.

I always think a charring light is a good idea, but wetter tobac and/or a wide bowl REALLY benefit form this. Plus to me this is part of the beauty of the ritual known as pipe smoking. It's another step away from "grabbing a smoke". It's part of what really attracts me to the pipe, aside from flavors. The tobacco prep, the drying the rubbing, the studious packing, the char, the rest, the smoke...the contemplation. It's ALL part fo connecting the head bone to the neck bone.

But really....I mostly can't believe that I got referenced in the first post

[Mister Moo]

Originally Posted by EvanS

And don't forget the charring light...

...I got referenced in the first post

So then. Two mistakes. Heh heh.

[dillonmcmurphy]

Very nice Moo. Very good info.