This is a discussion on Pipe Refinishing - Whats the trick?? within the General Pipe Forum forums, part of the Pipe Smokers Forums category; So I sanded down a crappy pipe I bought to refinish it and it ended up pretty pathetic. I used ...
So I sanded down a crappy pipe I bought to refinish it and it ended up pretty pathetic. I used Feibing's leather dye (dark brown) which seemed to be the recommendation by my research. How do I get a perfect coat? Its really spotted and mottled. Some areas are darker than others. I can't seem to get it right. So whats the trick? Should I mix a squirt of water in and then just do more coats? Use less dye? Put it on a rag and buff it on? All three? I'll post pics here pretty soon of the pipe. Its sanded down a bit but it still pretty accurately shows my problem.
The alcohol will help even it out, but what I would experiment with there is soaking it longer in dye (just keep brushing it on for a few minutes), and then sanding with high grit until you get the desired coloring/grain. It will be a lot easier to do that way and get even, and it will look much better.
What kind of wood is that?
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I have some 220 grain. Is it safe to say I need to run to the auto store and grab something with another zero on the end?
I suspect that you are getting bad results not because of the dye, but because you have not removed all of the old wax and finish. Liquid dye will spread and soak evenly into properly prepared wood.
The first thing you need to do is to keep 220 grit paper away from your pipes, that grit is coarse and is only meant to remove wood fast or to strip paint, it is nowhere near a finishing grade and will only cut scratches into your pipe.
Start with 320-400 grit emory paper, and when you think you have removed the entire outer layer of wood, hit it with 600 grit, then 1000 grit and even 2000 grit if you have the patience. The higher the grit, the more polished and smooth your pipe will appear (the super high ends have been polished with 8000 grit before being buffed some more!).
The wood is rosewood briar. Its been a challenge to work with, I suspect the wood also may be a reason the dye isn't spreading right. When I dab the dye on, it soaks in where ever I put it. There has been no even spreading like you described. I first used 100 gr (too coarse, I now know) to take the finish off then 220 to buff it down. I'll have to run down to autozone or whatever and grab some higher grit.
I beg to differ. 220 grit will NOT sand wood the smoothest he can get it.
I think he meant starting from scratch and not where Kyle's at now. Unless something horrible happened, most pipes that you refinish will be sanded smooth and there shouldn't be a need to hit it with sand paper.
Now, though, Kyle really needs to get the finer grit and smooth those gouges from the course grit paper. In the picture I can see where it was sanded with course grit.
For future pipes, I recommend just using a magic eraser until you get down to the color you want or using the acetone but I just really hesitate to put chemicals like that on my pipe.
using the acetone but I just really hesitate to put chemicals like that on my pipe.
I am not afraid to use acetone on the outside of my pipes. I don' use it inside the bowl. It evaporates completely, very quickly. Plus women use fingernail polish remover all the time apparently with no ill effects and it is just Acetone.
#0000 steel wool can put a pretty smooth finish on wood as a last step, too. Probably about like 1000 grit sandpaper, possibly even finer, but easier to use -- doesn't crease and you can get into the curvy areas easier. I have 1000 grit that I use for smoothing my nails for classical guitar, so I have tried both.
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