Do you sharpen your punch cutters when they get dull? - Page 4 - Puff Cigar Discussion Forums
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post #31 of 43 Old 06-08-2016, 02:47 PM
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Most quality punches can be sharpened by the maker. However, I have a favorite that was a premium included with an order of La Gloria Cubana. The punch cylinder can be removed. After researching on the web, I came to the conclusion that a Dremel tool would be the optimum one to use for this. There are many bits for fine work for this tool. However, a fine rat tail file can work too. If you have ever sharpened a good knife blade you know the steady strokes you need to use. In this case I secured the cylinder in a bench vise using an old scrap of soft leather. Roll the leather around the cylinder a couple of times and CAREFULLY grip it with the vise being aware that you could crush or crack it if you apply too much force. The leather allows you to give a snug grip. With the cutting edge usually on the inside, place the end of the file inside and twist/rotate the file as you withdraw the file. You will do this maybe five times and then reposition the cylinder in the vise to continue around the circumference. Remove from vise and test on the soft leather. This also cleans the edge. Do not use ANY cleaners or lubricants as the residue may transfer to your cigar. Clean with alcohol and a cotton swab.

You can also use the Dremel bit with the same method of securing the cylinder in the vise. I did see a YouTube video if a leather punch being sharpened on an oiled stone. But this was for cylinders held in a punch handle with an outside beveled edge.

I hope this helps.
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post #32 of 43 Old 06-08-2016, 03:51 PM
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I've never had one long enough for it to need sharpened. But the dremel seems like the way to go

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post #33 of 43 Old 06-08-2016, 11:36 PM
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Necropost, but I enjoyed and learned from reading it. Only punch I've used is built into my "fishing lighter" - a $10 jet with mirror in the cap to see your cherry and punch integrated into the bottom. But I think I'll grab some .223 cases and sharpen up the rim to have some spare punches on hand. Hell, I may do a nickel .45 shell for the 70 ring gauge in my humidor.

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post #34 of 43 Old 06-09-2016, 09:54 AM
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I'm a bit of a knife-nut and have numerous sharpeners including diamond round & tapered types. These are useful for sharpening serrated blades. I've never used one of these sharpeners on a cigar punch cutter, though.

I own several of these, good product -

http://www.amazon.com/Smiths-DRET-Diamond-Retractable-Sharpener/dp/B001910FOA?ie=UTF8&keywords=Diamond%20round%20sharpener%20serrated%20blades&qid=1465476648&ref_=sr_1_5&sr=8-5
I don't own this DMT model, but they make very high quality sharpeners (I own many of their other models) -

http://www.amazon.com/DMT-FSKF-Diafold-Serrated-Sharpener/dp/B00004WFTZ/ref=pd_sim_469_15?ie=UTF8&dpID=21zWVLQAJrL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1V542B1R7VQ4N6Y9F681
These can be readily found in outdoors sporting goods stores which cater to hunters, fishermen, campers, hikers etc

Last edited by Joe Sticks; 06-09-2016 at 02:40 PM. Reason: Bought mine locally - Wanted to say these can easily be found all over, not just at the big online store
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post #35 of 43 Old 06-09-2016, 09:21 PM
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Hijack alert: @Joe Sticks - you any good at sharpening recurve blades? Share your secrets!

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post #36 of 43 Old 06-09-2016, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCal Gunner View Post
Hijack alert: @Joe Sticks - you any good at sharpening recurve blades? Share your secrets!
Hi So Cal Gunner - I use round or half round sharpeners (like those pictured in the links I posted above) for recurves. Size of tool needs to be suitable for size of the particular knife. I put the knife in a vise and work using handtools. Its more time consuming, but less likely to overheat the blade and ruin its temper.

If at all possible, first practice on a cheapo blade. Don't ask how I learned that lesson !
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post #37 of 43 Old 06-11-2016, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCal Gunner View Post
Hijack alert: @Joe Sticks - you any good at sharpening recurve blades? Share your secrets!

My Zero tolerance 301 has a huge recurve. The Ken Onion model worksharp is a godsend, mirror finish and convex edge. I love it. I know a lot of people like flat ground and hand sharpening but IMO, the Ken Onion Worksharp is the bees knees


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post #38 of 43 Old 06-11-2016, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drummerguy1584 View Post
My Zero tolerance 301 has a huge recurve. The Ken Onion model worksharp is a godsend, mirror finish and convex edge. I love it. I know a lot of people like flat ground and hand sharpening but IMO, the Ken Onion Worksharp is the bees knees


"Only the dead have seen the end of war." -Plato

I've got the Spyderco system and while labor intensive, it works pretty good for a guy like me that can't use a whetstone to save his ass. For recurves, you use the "point" of the triangular stones vs the flat sides. Still a pain in the butt for me with recurves.

I've kicked around getting that KO worksharp for years and even let a guy sharpen my knife with it as a demo - he took a lot of material off, including some of the tip. That scared me away. If HE did that, I can only image how bad I'd F it up.

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post #39 of 43 Old 06-11-2016, 09:49 PM
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I tried it on some kitchen knives first, it's all about what kind of steel and how much pressure you put into it. On S30V it'll be perfect. On softer steel it may take too much off. I've never had an issue with tips, just want ch a lot of videos and how to's first. It's well worth it and has made me a believer in convex edges. He angle vs blade width is also very important


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post #40 of 43 Old 06-12-2016, 05:04 PM
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I don't sharpen my punch cutters,

but they never seem to dull....


probably because I never use them

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